Single Post Car Lift - any experience of knowledge about them?

[Dman007]

I just found out that my garage has a crack down the middle of the concrete and unable to install a 2 post lift.

Thinking about buying a single post list. Anyone have any experience, knowledge or recommendations <which company to purchase from>?

 

[Old Mopar Guy]

I would just go with a 4 post and sliding jacks if you wanted to unweight the suspension.

 

[oilburner]

I just found out that my garage has a crack down the middle of the concrete and unable to install a 2 post lift.

Thinking about buying a single post list. Anyone have any experience, knowledge or recommendations <which company to purchase from>?

if your concrete is 5 inch or more a few cracks shouldn`t stop from installing a 2 post.
are you talking about an air over hydraulic in ground piston style? I worked with those for years, as they wore out an started leaking oil just replaced with 2 post above ground. cracks or no cracks.

 

[oilburner]

my hoist at home shows cracks.

 

[Dman007]

Good info guys and to answer some questions....

I think my concrete is only 2", but I will drill it this weekend and measure.

As anyone used or know any good companies for a single post?

Jegs has one: https://www.jegs.com/i/Turk+Bros./9...4fYEazxQQsXMG-LpIQl3Fesor3CKdEghoCCsYQAvD_BwE

 

[Deano]

If the cracks are where the post have to go, you can have a good concrete guy cut out a 2 or 3 foot section and put in a reinforced pad. Your concrete may not be thick enough with out doing this anyway.
As for a single post hydraulic, have you priced them?
Just saw your last post, not the single post I thought you were talking about. After looking at it, not for me.
For what it is worth, I had a twin post and then had to change to a 4 post because my Chevy based motor home can't be lifted by a 2 post. The 4 post however obstructs access to so much under the vehicle. I prefer the 2 post for access to the entire underside of the car.

 

[Dman007]

If the cracks are where the post have to go, you can have a good concrete guy cut out a 2 or 3 foot section and put in a reinforced pad. Your concrete may not be thick enough with out doing this anyway.
As for a single post hydraulic, have you priced them?

I just posted a link: see above

 

[Deano]

I did, and edited my post

 

[oilburner]

I just posted a link: see above

I agree with Deano..........if you only have 2" of concrete spend a bit of money an cut a nice area an pour a thicker pad, I think you would be much happier. I`m not sure I would want to even use that style on only 2 inches. ...............safety first!!!

 

[BULL]

I did not even know that kind of lift existed.


I thought you were talking about a single hydraulic ram in the floor like my Grandfather's shop used to have. I hadn't seen one of those since I was wee-little...


Example:

 

[2017 Redline HC]

I dont think I’d feel comfortable working under one of these. Lots of vid’s on You Tube

Depending on what type of work you’re doing you may fine a Quick Jack helpful.. I love mine

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-6000xlt/

 

[Dman007]

I dont think I’d feel comfortable working under one of these. Lots of vid’s on You Tube

Depending on what type of work you’re doing you may fine a Quick Jack helpful.. I love mine

https://www.quickjack.com/car-lifts/bl-6000xlt/

Thank you!!

 

[Dman007]

I have a scissor lift and I can move it around. The weight of the car is distributed over a larger area if you are concerned about the concrete supporting the car

can you please provide a link to your scissor lift?

 

[Dman007]

https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.co...rtable-mid-rise-frame-lift-p/al-mr6.5k-38.htm

Looks like an air compressor required as well, or no?

 

[Deano]

A scissor lift or quick lift has the same disadvantages as a 4 post concerning access under the vehicle and does not lift high enough to stand up under the car.
Another possible disadvantage is the runways lifting the vehicle may press on parts of the car that should not be pressed against.
I went through all of this comparing one to the other, the advantages and disadvantages, before making a decision to go with a 2 post. This is, of course depending on having sufficient truss height to raise the vehicle and being able to place the 2 post lift pads in the correct postion under the car.
One other thing to consider. When I was much younger I could get under a car on a creeper, and did, a lot. Now, I have a very hard time getting up from down under, being able to stand up under the vehicle has become a necessity.
Bottom line, your car, your money.

 

[1971demon]

I have a scissor lift and I can move it around. The weight of the car is distributed over a larger area if you are concerned about the concrete supporting the car

I have a permanent single post cantilever lift ...(drive on ramps...) don't remember the mfgr. off hand...It needed a minimum 5"concrete base...and it was rather pricey...

 

[Dman007]

Really great information guys. I love getting tons of data to pour through. Thank you!!

 

[greasy]

I just found out that my garage has a crack down the middle of the concrete and unable to install a 2 post lift.

Thinking about buying a single post list. Anyone have any experience, knowledge or recommendations <which company to purchase from>?

A crack in your concrete does not prevent you from anchoring into it. In fact the anchors these days are designed/tested for use in cracked concrete. While the concrete substrate does lose some strength, I think you'll find that the load values are more than acceptable. The only situation I would avoid entirely is if the spot you will be anchoring to is cracked to the point where it is starting to crumble. My recommendation is to use the DEWALT Screw-Bolt+ Anchor. You do not have to worry about edge distance with this anchor is it is not a wedge type anchor and it is approved for cracked concrete by the latest ICC building codes.

Your garage slab is a minimum of 4" thick by code, reinforced by rebar or at minimum reinforced by wire mesh, and is 2,500 psi at minimum. Given those conditions if you use a 3/4" diameter x 2-1/2" long Screw-Bolt+ you'll have 1,150 lbs load capacity in tension from a single bolt, meaning pulling out directly up from direction it was installed. This is the force we are most concerned about here, the shear load is much higher but also not as relevant. There are 4 anchor points per post probably, so at minimum using the 3/4" diameter x 2-1/2" long Screw-Bolt+ you will have a load capacity of over 6,000 lbs at one post. I personally would use the 3/4" diameter x 4-1/4" long Screw-Bolt+ if you can.

You might wonder how I know this and why this is valid. I have worked in the construction industry for almost 15 years selling these products, more specifically now for DEWALT.

http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/p...rs/screw-boltplus/screw-boltplus_hex_head.php

http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/_documents/uploads/dw_screwbolt_e_techpage.pdf?1610289085

 

[greasy]

The load values I posted above are "Allowable" which means they have a built in safety factor for them and in uncracked concrete. If you click on the lick with load tables there are "Ultimate" load values which are much higher. The values are basically the upper limits of failure with no safety factor involved. For reference the ultimate load capacity given the same conditions of 3/4" diameter x 2-1/2" long Screw-Bolt+ is over 24,000 lbs.

I would avoid drilling/installing the anchors directly into the path of a crack just to be clear, but a crack in your garage shouldn't be a huge deal.

 

[Dman007]

A crack in your concrete does not prevent you from anchoring into it. In fact the anchors these days are designed/tested for use in cracked concrete. While the concrete substrate does lose some strength, I think you'll find that the load values are more than acceptable. The only situation I would avoid entirely is if the spot you will be anchoring to is cracked to the point where it is starting to crumble. My recommendation is to use the DEWALT Screw-Bolt+ Anchor. You do not have to worry about edge distance with this anchor is it is not a wedge type anchor and it is approved for cracked concrete by the latest ICC building codes.

Your garage slab is a minimum of 4" thick by code, reinforced by rebar or at minimum reinforced by wire mesh, and is 2,500 psi at minimum. Given those conditions if you use a 3/4" diameter x 2-1/2" long Screw-Bolt+ you'll have 1,150 lbs load capacity in tension from a single bolt, meaning pulling out directly up from direction it was installed. This is the force we are most concerned about here, the shear load is much higher but also not as relevant. There are 4 anchor points per post probably, so at minimum using the 3/4" diameter x 2-1/2" long Screw-Bolt+ you will have a load capacity of over 6,000 lbs at one post. I personally would use the 3/4" diameter x 4-1/4" long Screw-Bolt+ if you can.

You might wonder how I know this and why this is valid. I have worked in the construction industry for almost 15 years selling these products, more specifically now for DEWALT.

http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/p...rs/screw-boltplus/screw-boltplus_hex_head.php

http://anchors.dewalt.com/anchors/_documents/uploads/dw_screwbolt_e_techpage.pdf?1610289085

View attachment 35369

That is why I love this dang forum!! @greasy killed it. Thank you brother!!! I will take some pictures of the concrete and post them.

Btw, my house is 22 years old and HOPE to pray I have 4" concreate. But we will drill and verify today.